Goodyear Welting is the method we use to attach the parts of the boot together (vamp, leather insole, outsole) and it’s been around since the second half of the 19th century. Cowboy boots made in this manner are long-lasting and remarkably easy to repair. Traditionally it involves cutting a channel directly into the leather insole and using this to sew the welt to.
But things changed in the 1950’s when factories looked for ways to cut costs. They invented gemming, a canvas ribbing used in place of that channel. It’s faster and cheaper and more than 95% of all Goodyear Welted footwear is now made this way. However, that canvas creates an inlet for moisture and adds a point of failure. It weakens over time, shortening the life of the boot by reducing the number of times it can be resoled. It’s a departure from craftsmanship.
Chisos boots are made using the traditional channel welt method. The welt is stitched directly to the leather insole. We use a hand-cranked tool to carve a channel into the leather insole (we use triple-thick insoles to achieve this compared to the gemming method). This eliminates that point of failure caused by a secondary attachment point.
The way we do it at Chisos is difficult and labour intensive, but we believe it to be the best way. As the good book says, thou shalt not cut corners.